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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.